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Aconcagua. (CI000943)

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Aconcagua, called Ancocahuac by the Incas, stands of note as the highest mountain in the world outside central Asia and thus, the highest mountain on the South American continent. As such it is one of the 'Seven Summits' - those peaks, each of which is the highest mountain on one of the seven continents. Rising tall above the head of the Relinchos and Horcones valleys, its name, from the Quechua words anco (white) and cahuac (sentinel), describes well its often snow covered aspect. Located at latitude ~32º south, in western central Argentina and about fifteen kilometres from the frontier with Chile it is some 180 kilometres from Mendoza (in Argentina) and approximately 160 kilometres from Santiago de Chile.

Despite its towering height of 6962 metres (~22 800 feet) it is a peak that is attainable by the fit and sensible without the requirement for technical skill and equipment. Considerations, however, for any party venturing onto the mountain are the concerns associated with high altitude and its associated Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Also, the weather plays a major hand in the success of any expedition to Aconcagua. The summit and the high camps and their approaches are often torn by extreme winds that can shred tents, batter equipment, and destroy morale. The temperature high on the mountain can often plummet to an unfriendly level approaching -30º centigrade - and this in a southern hemisphere summer which is generally considered the best climbing season (December to March).

The city of Mendoza is used by many parties as a base for organising supplies, equipment, and transport to, on, and from the mountain. It is a large metropolis with over 600 000 people living within the central city and surrounding suburbs. There is a variety of accommodation within the city itself catering for the budget conscious to those desiring five star luxury. A bustling community, except during siesta from 1:00pm to 4:30pm, the city comes to life after 9:00pm when the many sidewalk cafes and restaurants begin to fill. The locals regularly eat out and late. There are several efficient and well-equipped trekking establishments which are able to help with equipment, supplies and mules.

Loading The Mules. (CI000963) From Mendoza a three hour drive by mini bus drops expedition members at their launch point. Most parties spend a final morning getting organised in Mendoza and then travelling to Los Penitentes or Puente Del Inca some 180 kilometres to the west. These ski resorts, open for climbers and other tourists in summer, provide an excellent location to spend a relaxed night and ease into the acclimatisation process (altitude about 2700 metres) before the hard work begins.

The mountain has two main approaches. The normal route via the Horcones valley is reached by travelling several kilometres west from Puente Del Inca while a secondary passage along the Vacas and Relinchos valleys starts at Punta de Vacas, several kilometres east of Los Penitentes. Although the mountain can be climbed without the use of pack animals, expedition equipment and supplies are generally carried into base camp by mule. These mules and the gouchos that drive them can be arranged in this area or earlier in Mendoza. A two person team could get away with a single mule and muleteer but larger expeditions will require exponentially more. During the hike to base camp the majority of gear travels on mule back and meets the expedition at night camps. This however is negotiable and should be arranged explicitly with the muleteers or outfitters. Someone with a good understanding of local Spanish would be highly desirable in these circumstances.

Following the normal route, the walk to the western base camp, Plaza de Mulas (4300 metres), is approximately thirty kilometres and generally takes two days to travel. Walking up the Horcones Valley from Laguna Horcones the trail meanders with the Rio Horcones along the western bank until crossing the river via a footbridge. It then continues on to the first campsite - Confluencia - just after crossing the Lower Horcones River on a second footbridge at around 3300 metres. This total of some eight kilometres extends approximately four hours. From Confluencia, Rio Horcones is followed on the eastern bank until base camp is achieved some eight hours and twenty-two kilometres later.

On the trail from Plaza de Mulas there are several opportunities for high camps: Camp Canada (~4900 metres), Camp Alaska (~5200 metres), and Nido de Condores (~5400 metres). Of these, Nido de Condores is generally used as Camp 1 and takes some five or six hours to reach from Plaza de Mulas. Camp 2 is typically set up at Camp Berlin (~5900 metres) some two or three hours further up the trail. An alternative second camp may be the White Rocks camp (Piedra Blanca), a touch further along at about 6000 metres. From here a summit attempt can be made progressing past Independencia Hut (in disrepair and provides no real shelter) at approximately 6550 metres and then up and to the right, eventually reaching the Canaleta. This shute, leading to the final summit plateau, takes both physical stamina and mental strength to traverse. It is some four or five hours of upward (30º-35º slope) travel through small to large scree, scattered boulders and patches of snow and ice. Although it is not technically difficult and the summit continually beckons, it is a final test of determination, perseverance and endurance that must be overcome. The ascent from Camp Berlin takes some seven to ten hours.

El Cumbre (CI000957) Once on the summit, having no higher land mass to impede the view, the Andes and the continent of South America stretch in all directions. Hopefully conditions have been kind and no clouds impede the view, although it is not wise to attempt the summit if the weather does not appear to be cooperating.

Descent to Camp Berlin follows the same route as the ascent. Generally the next day sees a return to Plaza de Mulas and after taking a day to rest and pack base camp some parties walk the entire distance to the trail head in a single day although two may be taken, stopping off again at Confluencia on the return.

Plaza Argentina (CI000959) The second approach to the mountain leads to Plaza Argentina (4200 metres) on the eastern side but provides no view of Aconcagua until late on the second day. It starts up the Vacas valley following the western side of the Rio de Las Vacas and is about a four hour, eight kilometre hike before the first camp, Pampa de Leñas (2800 metres), is reached. The second camp - Casa de Piedra (3200 metres) - is on the eastern side of the river and is about eighteen kilometres and some five or six hours walk upstream. Crossing the river at Pampa de Leñas is somewhat more difficult than closer to Casa de Piedra but allows a much easier walk. The river can easily be forded using the mules or horses on which the gear is travelling but this needs to be arranged with the muleteers. At this spot the river becomes quite dangerous in the afternoon as glacier melt swells its flow. It should only be crossed by the very experienced or with the aid of a mule or horse when it flows thus. Crossing the Rio de Las Vacas. (CI000921)

Aconcagua first comes into view at the head of the Relinchos valley as Casa de Piedra is approached. From here there is one more day of some fifteen kilometres and six or so hours to reach base camp at 4200 metres. This day is often quite strenuous as it starts with a fairly steep hike up a ridge and then progresses gradually up towards Plaza Argentina - a total vertical ascent in the day of 1000 metres. It also crosses the Arroyo Relinchos several times adding extra challenges. Once over the first ridge the mountain stands in all its splendour, beckoning the expedition into base camp for the remainder of the day.

From base camp, two or more high camps can be used. Initially the glacial moraine is traversed following many rock cairns and then a large scree slope climbed along its skirts. The first camp - at around 5000 metres - is above this scree slope along the glacier which often runs during the afternoon melt. This ascent takes about four hours from Plaza Argentina. An intermediate camp - some two hours further along - can then be used in the saddle between Aconcagua and Cerro Ameghino (Ameghino Col at around 5400 metres). From here the high camp at the base of the Polish Glacier (5900 - 6000 metres) can be reached in about four hours.

High Camp At The Polish Glacier. (CI000950) Although the Polish Glacier entices from the high camp it should not be attempted without appropriate equipment and experience. The summit is reached by traversing from high camp up and to the right, meeting the normal route below Independencia hut. This ascent takes between ten and twelve hours and may require ice axe and crampons depending on snow and ice conditions. The descent to high camp follows the same route in reverse and takes approximately four to five hours.

Most groups then descend from high camp to Plaza Argentina in one day. After packing base camp and loading the mules, Casa de Piedra is often bypassed with the next camp being made at Pampa de Leñas. This is a long day, hard on the feet, and is sometimes done on the western side of the Rio de Las Vacas to avoid crossing the river late in the afternoon. The last day takes the expedition back to the trail head at Punta de Vacas to be met by bus and then on to Mendoza.


Diary Of An Expedition - Aconcagua 2000
Day 13rd January 2000. team gathers in Mendoza - 13 including 3 guides
Day 2final organisation and mini bus to Los Penitentes
Day 3casual morning and afternoon walk to Pampa de Leñas. THE MULES DID NOT ARRIVE! Spent cold hungry night lying in the dirt
Day 4waited for the mules which turned up about 14:30
Day 5walk to Casa de Piedra
Day 6walk to base camp at Plaza Argentina. Four Argentinians die on Polish Glacier
Day 7rest day
Day 8carry to Camp 1 and return to base camp
Day 9rest day
Day 10walk to camp 1 and stay. The army followed us up and as we arrived they met a group coming down - dragging the bodies of the four Argentinians - very sobering. Altitude problems - two of team return to base camp
Day 11carry to camp 2 and return to camp 1
Day 12walk to Ameghino Col and camp
Day 13pack Ameghino Col camp, walk to camp 2 and stay. Winds this night >100km/hour. temperature inside a cosy tent -9º centigrade. Two tents destroyed.
Day 14rest day. five return to base camp
Day 1504:00 remaining 6 leave for the summit - cold, wind, and lack of experience turn us back at about 06:00
Day 1618th January 2000. 04:30 attempt the summit again - only four this time. Sit on summit rock at 15:40. Only hang around for 10 minutes. Get back to high camp at 20:30
Day 17pack high camp and return to Base camp. On the way pack camp 1 and carry it out also
Day 18rest day at base camp. Clean camp and do most of the packing
Day 19finish packing base camp and walk to Pampa de Leñas. A long day and hard on the feet
Day 20walk to Punta de Vacas and get minibus to Mendoza - shower, food, hit the town!





Secor R.J. Aconcagua, A Climbing Guide The Mountaineers, 1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201. Seattle. Washington. 98134. ISBN 0-89886-406-2
Salkeld, Audrey (editor) World Mountaineering Mitchel Beazley, Octopus Publishing Group Ltd, Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, London SW3 6RB. ISBN 0-8212-2502-2
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