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Images Of The Khumbu  Expediton Diary

Khumbu High Passes,
The adventure of Nepal has lured people from across the planet for decades - from the early days of western exploration and survey in the mid 1800’s to the influx of trekkers in the last 20 to 30 years. This era has spanned the conquering of the highest mountains in the world during the middle of last century as well as interest in wildlife and the diversity of culture and religion.

For many this may seem too grand, too difficult, too expensive, or just too far away but rest assured that none of these really need to be a reason for not going. The rewards gained from a trip to this small country are numerous.

Some seasons are better than others for trekking but regardless of the time of year it is wise to plan the trip anywhere from six to twelve months in advance as hotel accommodation and flights into and out of Nepal fill quickly for the prime trekking periods.

There are many international travel companies that offer a large variety of trips into the Kingdom of Nepal. These trips cater for most interests and any level of experience and fitness from fully catered and guided hotel-based tours to remote technical mountaineering expeditions. Once in Nepal, specifically its capital Kathmandu, there becomes available a myriad of local trekking and tour agencies that can be utilised by those wishing to do some of the organising themselves. Although the majority of these are competent and bona-fide, some care should be taken in choosing an appropriate operation. Many of these agencies are those that are used by our more familiar tour operators for the local, on the ground infrastructure and staff.

The available trekking regions spread across the entire country with the most popular being: Other areas that, although not as popular, provide excellent trekking include: Markets. (CI001864) The majority of trips to Nepal begin with arrival in Kathmandu, which itself is a cosmopolitan and fascinating mix of culture, religion, history, and lifestyle. Primarily a mix of Hindu and Buddhist customs and traditions, a wander through the streets exposes a visitor to a diversity of architecture, colour, dress, food, and living conditions. Although a large proportion of the population live a simple and meagre life there is only minimal evidence of poverty.

Many tourists stay within the Thamel region of the city during their visit. As well as conventional western style business and administration centres, the streets of this area are lined with shops, local businesses, and market stalls. Some streets cater for specific needs, hosting a multitude of specialist operations, such as dentists where the small room is openly visible to the street through wide windows and open doors. Perhaps a 'practical' visit here would not be the wisest choice as the furniture and implements often appear to date back several decades.

During the day the streets are abuzz with activity; street hawkers, stall merchants, multitudes of pedestrians, pushbikes, rickshaws, motor cycles, tuk tuks, and cars – all using the same space without incident but a cacophony of noise. The stalls and hawkers continually offer goods and if the slightest interest is shown a casual wanderer may be followed for many minutes in an attempt to make a sale. The numerous and diverse cafes, restaurants, and bars offer something for every taste. In fact you can probably get anything you want just by strolling the busy streets of Thamel.

Once visitors have had their fill of the bustle of Kathmandu the adventure of the trail beckons. The journey into the mountains can take several forms. An adventurous bus ride and then trek through hot and rainy lowlands or a plane flight close into the main trail heads.

Towards Sagarmatha

Mt Everest, named after Sir George Everest – the British Surveyor General of India when it was first identified, is known to the Nepalese as Sagarmatha and to the Sherpas and Tibetans as Chomolungma – Mother Goddess of the Earth.

Lukla Landing. (CI001807) Namche Markets. (CI001882) To visit the region surrounding Sagarmatha, trekkers generally fly to Lukla, or less often these days walk from Jiri. The flight into Lukla is quite exhilarating as the small plane – operated by Yeti Air or some other local airline – climbs past verdant forests, through low cloud and seemingly within arms reach of towering peaks.

Phakding. (CI001876) Lukla – a mix of trekker accommodation, local houses and trading outlets – is soon left behind as the trail leads slightly down towards Phakding. This once small village has grown markedly over the last several years as more lodges and tea houses have been built to accommodate the increased numbers of trekkers using the area as a camp on the trail north. After Phakding, several days are often spent in Namche Bazaar exploring the culture and stalls of the locals and acclimatising to the increased altitude.

Namche Bazaar is the administrative centre of the Khumbu region and amongst an ever increasing number of hotels and lodges are also a multitude of market stalls, bars, food outlets etc. If there is something that you think you should be able to get in the mountains, more than likely you can get it somewhere here. Namche is probably the first time that Yaks may be seen as they do not live at the lower altitudes. These large, hairy and usually docile creatures are often decorated with bells, ribbons, and other coloured material and can be seen being driven under heavy loads along the narrow streets and trails or tethered near markets or in nearby paddocks. If market day is near then there may be a travelling Tibetan Yak caravan in town – with their abundance of goods spread across the open market.

Although altitude sickness can affect people at lower elevations, more care and awareness of symptoms needs to be taken once reaching Namche – at around 3440 metres above sea level – and beyond. It is wise to spend two or even three nights in the town before heading further up the trail. There is plenty to do for this time, strolling the local trails, exploring the streets, markets, stalls and shops, or simply resting.

The Way Less Travelled

Bridge To Thame. (CI001900) The main trail towards Sagarmatha heads out to the north-east but by travelling north-west an alternative route can be taken that leads up through the Thame Valley. At the time of this adventure this valley was used as part of only a few of the organised treks and hence hardly a western face was to be seen. Our climbing sherpa grew up in this area and also spent time in a nearby gompa for many years studying the teachings of Buddha. It was a privilege to share dinner at his mother's house.

Mists Of Renjo. (CI001914) The trail is quite easy but ascends steadily into thinner and crisper air and more care is needed to avoid altitude problems. The last of the trees are left behind at Thame as you wander through stone fenced paddocks and along rocky trails. A few houses make up the village of Marlung - a convenient place to spend an extra day acclimatising - resting or walking up the nearby hills.

Cho-Oyu, standing some 8153 metres, can be seen at the head of the valley as further ascent is made towards Arye, another small village. Here the road into Tibet is left behind and a trail followed into the mists towards Renjo La - the pass across into the Gokyo valley. A camp can be made near some small tarns before crossing the pass the next day. The ascent of Renjo La is not overly difficult but does involve some rock scrambling. From the top of the pass Gokyo can be seen by the lake below and Sagarmatha herself stands tall to the east. Everest View. (CI001923)

Gokyo - from Renjo La. (CI001925) The day from the Renjo camp to Gokyo is very long and if too much time is spent over a casual breakfast or lunch, or admiring the view from the top of the pass then darkness will be about before wandering tired into Gokyo. This long day and the highest altitude on the trip so far can tend to dull the spirit and dampen the enthusiasm. A spare day spent in Gokyo or perhaps climbing the nearby Gokyo Ri (about 4 hours return) is a good way to replenish the spirits.

Back On The Main Trail

This area and most for the rest of the trek are once again in the very popular regions and there will be many tourists, porters, and guides clattering along the trails and jostling for sites in the camps. Also the skies are often torn by the sound of helicopters, called to evacuate some unfortunate trekker who has succumbed to the altitude. From Gokyo the valley is followed south for a short distance and then the Ngozumpa Glacier crossed and a new camp set at the small village of Dragnag.

The Summit Of Pokalde. (CI001779) On leaving Dragnag the pass at Cho La is crossed. Depending on the time of year and amount of snow about, this crossing may entail a glacier crossing and may need crampons and an ice axe. Very few of the villages in these regions are more than a gathering of a few houses and families and Dzonglha is no different. The trail from Dzonglha to Lobuche, at around 4930 metres, winds south and then north to skirt a ridge and enter the main valley. There are several lodges here but many groups tend to camp as the bed space is not particularly abundant. Consideration needs to be given to the use of toilet facilities etc. as the area can become quite populated during peak times and available amenities are very limited.

Reflections Of Ama Dablam On Kongma Lakes. (CI001771) Some groups make Lobuche their highest camp and walk up to Gorak Shep and Kala Patthar and back in a long day. However, for a more relaxed visit to the Everest base camp area it may be better to camp at Gorak Shep for an evening. With an early rise from here, sunrise on Pumo Ri, Everest, Nuptse and the surrounding peaks can be viewed from the top of Kala Patthar. This can be a very cold walk with temperatures well below freezing until the sun warms the slopes. It will most likely also be the highest altitude reached on the trek at around 5550 metres.

For many the visit to the Everest Base Camp region is the climax and the rest of the trek is simply the journey home. However, for those interested there is still much more to see in this area. Travelling south a small distance from Lobuche and crossing the Khumbu Glacier leads to another high pass - Kongma La. The walk is easy - apart from the lack of breath due to altitude - and leads into the eastern valley and a camp at Chhukung. However, while in the area the Kongma Lakes can be used as a camp to climb the neaby Pokalde (5806 metres). This small trekking peak is not overly difficult but may need some rope skills and snow/climbing/abseiling experience.

On the way out of the mountains the trail passes by Tengboche – the largest and busiest monastery in the Khumbu. There are areas to camp around here as well as a variety of lodges, nearby and up to thirty minutes walk away. The monastery itself was first completed in 1919 but has suffered several catastrophes since. In 1934 it was destroyed by an earthquake and after rebuilding was burnt to the ground in 1989. The current building was completed in 1993 and houses around 50 or 60 monks. The campsite, skirted by rhododendrons and fir trees, has truly magnificent views of the surrounding peaks of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and others. A visit to the monastery itself is fascinating and after being woken at 4:00am by the horns playing from within its walls it is a cultural experience not to be missed.

From Tengboche the trail continues south-west, returning to Namche Bazaar and then on to Lukla and the flight out to Kathmandu - and the best pizza in Thamel, Fire and Ice!

Diary Of An Expedition - Khumbu High Passes 2001
Day 15th October 2001. Adventure Begins - 6 depart Brisbane Australia. Arrive in Bangkok - Thailand - for overnight stay
Day 2depart Bangkok for Kathmandu - trouble at checkin due to cancellation of Royal Nepal flight and transfer to Thai Air flight
Day 3tour of Kathmandu
Day 4finalise expedition equipment
Day 5early morning flight to Lukla (2808m) and trek to Phakding (2564m), ~7-8km
Day 6Phakding (2564m) to Namche Bazar (3407m), ~8-9km
Day 7rest day
Day 8Namche Bazar (3407m) to Thame (3844m), ~8-9km
Day 9Thame (3844m) to Marlung (~4137m), ~8-9km
Day 10rest day
Day 11Marlung (~4137m) to Renjo Base Camp (~4937m), ~6-7km
Day 12Renjo Base Camp (~4937m) to Gokyo (4775m), ~5-6km, Renjo Pass 5388m. This is a long day.
Day 13rest day
Day 14Gokyo (4775m) to Dragnag (4694m), ~5-6km. Short day, about 2 hours walk
Day 15Dragnag (4694m) across Cho La (5380m) to Dzonglha (4841m), ~11-12km. Another long day, about 9 hours walk
Day 16Dzhonglha (4841m) to Lobuche (4925m), ~8-9km
Day 17Lobuche (4925m) to Gorak Shep (5165m), ~5-6km
Day 18Gorak Shep (5165m) to Kala Patthar () to Lobuche (4925m)
Day 19Lobuche (4925m) to Pokalde Base Camp - Kongma Lakes (5470m), ~3-4km
Day 20Pokalde Base Camp (5470m) to Pokalde (5806m) to Chhukung (4763m), ~9-10km
Day 21Chhukung (4763m) to Dingboche (4343m), ~5-6km
Day 22Dingboche (4343m) to Tengboche (3855m), ~12-13km
Day 23Tengboche (3855m) to Namche Bazar (3407m) ~9-10km
Day 24Namche Bazar (3407m) to Phakding (2564m), ~8-9km
Day 25Phakding (2564m) to Lukla (2808m), ~7-8km - Party!
Day 26Lukla (2808m) to Kathmandu
Day 27Kathmandu
Day 28Kathmandu
Day 29Return To Brisbane
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